Hydroquinone A skin lightening ingredient that inhibits tyrosine, an enzyme involved in melanin production, American Osteopathic College of Dermatology. It is used to treat hyperpigmentation including melasma, age spots and acne scars.
Kojic Acid An alternative to hydroquinone, this mushroom-based skin brightener targets discoloration by inhibiting pigment production, per Cleveland Clinic.
Lactic acid Per CosmeticsInfo.orgthis AHA may also appear in skin care products as a “lactate” (as in calcium lactate or sodium lactate). Lactic acid is common in antiaging products because it exfoliates to boost brightness and even tone, and it draws water into the skin, hydrating it.
Lanolin A waxy substance secreted by sheep, this fatty ingredient is highly moisturizing, according to EWG.
Lycopene Per L’Oréal Paris USAmany red fruits and vegetables (such as tomatoes, watermelons and papayas) contain this antioxidant that protects and repairs the skin.
Manuka honey A remarkable ingredient, this honey native to Australia and New Zealand seals moisture into the skin, according to L’Oréal Paris USA. It also acts as an antibacterial and antifungal agent.
Methylpropanediol A long name for a basic function — this ingredient is included in skin care products as a solvent (ie a substance in which other substances can be dissolved). According to the EWGdoes not pose a health risk.
Mineral water “All water contains minerals, which vary depending on the source of the water,” he says Joshua Zeichner, MDdirector of aesthetics and clinical research in the department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York. But metallic makeup matters, she adds. For example, hard water, which can leave residue on your hands, per the US Geological Surveyit’s high in calcium, an ingredient that can damage the outer layer of skin, says Dr. Zeichner. The mineral (or “mineral”) water found in facial mists, on the other hand, contains selenium, which can provide anti-inflammatory benefits that help calm, soothe, and hydrate angry skin. “Mineral water can be especially helpful if you have skin sensitivity or facial conditions like rosacea,” says Zeichner.
Niacinamide Also known as vitamin B3 and nicotinamide. This vitamin, when used topically, can help strengthen the skin barrier to improve moisture levels and reduce the appearance of pores, according to Paula’s Choice Skincare.
Pantothenic Acid Another name for vitamin B5, this ingredient strengthens the skin’s barrier to stop water loss. It is most common in lotions, creams and serums, according to L’Oréal Paris USA.
Parabens A family of chemicals that act as preservatives, this group of ingredients includes methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben and ethylparaben. Parabens can be irritating to some skins, according to the EWG. But the biggest concern is that parabens can disrupt certain hormones in the body. The FDA notes that there is currently no information to prove that parabens in skin care products and cosmetics are dangerous to your health, but they add that studies are ongoing.
Peptides These are chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins in the skin (such as collagen, elastin and keratin) that help the skin stay firm and elastic. For this reason, peptides can help reduce the signs of skin aging, according to Paula’s Choice Skincare.
Ointment from petroleum distillation This is your standard petroleum jelly. The thick, sticky substance forms a barrier on the skin that locks in moisture. Use it to promote healing of minor wounds, heal chapped lips and flaky eyelids, moisturize nails, prevent chafing and treat diaper rash, AAD.
Phthalates These chemicals—especially diethyl phthalate (DEP)—are another controversial ingredient. In cosmetics, DEP acts as a solvent for fragrance, and while the Campaign for safe cosmetics has characterized phthalates as endocrine disruptors and linked them to cancer; says the FDA that there is no proven health risk from exposure to them.
Retinoids According to the AADthese are a vitamin A derivative used in anti-aging and anti-acne products. Retinoids such as tretinoin, tazarotene, and adapalene help stimulate collagen production and treat acne and are available by prescription or over-the-counter. Note that retinoids are not suitable for use during pregnancy, according to the AAD.
Retinol An over-the-counter vitamin A derivative, retinol is a weaker form of retinoids, according to the AAD. You may see it listed on the package as retinyl palmitate or retinaldehyde.
Rhamnose This specialized plant-derived sugar molecule acts as a messenger to help stimulate cell activity in the skin, Zeichner says. The result is renewed collagen and elastin production, which in turn thickens the skin’s foundation and fights sagging, wrinkles and fine lines. Early lab support study published in June 2019 in International Journal of Cosmetic ScienceZeichner adds that rhamnose may also protect against the hardening of collagen fibers that occurs with age.
Rosmarinus Officinalis Extracted from rosemary, this botanical offers antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, per CosmeticsInfo.org.
Salicylic acid This BHA helps unclog pores and reduce redness and puffiness, making it a popular addition to anti-acne products. It can also help treat skin conditions like psoriasis, dandruff, calluses and more by softening and removing dead skin cells, according to MedlinePlus.
Silicon A mineral found in sandstone, clay and granite, silica makes mixes thicker and more absorbent, notes Paula’s Choice Skincare.
Sodium benzoate It is used as a preservative and in perfume compositions, according to the EWGit is also known as benzoic acid.
Sodium lauryl sulfate This is a foaming and emulsifying ingredient commonly found in soaps and cleansers. Sulfates are generally safe when used in cosmetics, but carry a low risk of irritation, according to the EWG.
Squalene According to CosmeticsInfo.orgyou will find squalene in the oils that are naturally present in your skin. It is added to products as an emollient that leaves the skin soft and smooth. (When squalene is hydrogenated, it becomes squalane, which is a more effective and stable component, per Elta MD.)
Sulfur A chemical element, sulfur treats acne (from red, angry bumps to blackheads and whiteheads) by targeting pimple-producing bacteria, exfoliating pore-clogging skin cells, and controlling oiliness, according to Proactiv.
Titanium Dioxide Titanium dioxide, commonly found in mineral sunscreens, “reflects, scatters, and absorbs UVA and UVB rays.” according to the EPA.
Water You’ll find water as a main ingredient in most skin care products, from cleansers and creams to makeup and moisturizers, she says CosmeticsInfo.org. It is a common solvent for active ingredients and, when mixed with oil, gives skin creams their silky texture.
Zinc oxide Like titanium dioxide, this is another sunscreen ingredient that naturally blocks UV rays, says the EPA. Mineral sunscreen ingredients are usually gentler on the skin, so they are suitable for sensitive skin and are included in many baby sunscreens.
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