For her 43rd birthday, Elena Duque wanted to treat herself. Already experienced with Botox and lip fillers, the Florida-based TV host was excited when her nurse told her about a new injectable on the market, Skinvive. “I’m always looking at myself, whether it’s TikTok or being on TV a lot. I want to always have my skin looking as good as it can,” said Duque, who searched for examples of Skinvive on social media before getting the procedure done in November. “I liked the idea that it wasn’t filler, that it didn’t change the structure of your face.”
Produced by Allergan Aesthetics, which also owns Botox and CoolSculpting, Juvéderm’s Skinvive is the first filler in a new category coined as “injectable moisturizers” or “skin enhancers” to arrive in the US, having received approval from the FDA for use. on the cheeks last May. The hyaluronic acid-based injectable is so thinner in consistency than dermal fillers used to seal lips or create liquid nose jobs and is injected at a more superficial level to give the skin a hydrated appearance. The results are expected to last about six months.
With the promise of a natural, potion-like effect, Skinvive speaks to a modern market where good skin is the ultimate accessory. The product has an edge over competitors such as IBSA’s Profhilo or Galderma’s Restylane Skinbooster and may appeal to Gen-Z consumers looking for both an initial treatment and an addition to routine procedures such as Botox. But with a high price tag and relatively subtle results that can take weeks to fully appear, Skinvive’s ability to become a regular part of consumers’ cosmetic routines remains untested.
“We’re still learning who the best patients are that will really benefit from this because we’re just starting to play with it now,” said Susanna Franks, MD, a physician assistant at Washington Square Dermatology in New York.
Like many cosmetic procedures, social media plays a key role in helping new products reach consumers, with early adopters of Skinvive sharing their experience on TikTok. But that also leaves room for negative feedback to shape public perception—after one round of Skinvive, Duque shared with her audience that she was left with bumps on her face at the injection sites.
The New Face of Injectables
The Covid-19 pandemic has helped normalize filler use among millennials and Gen-Zers — but their growing popularity has also made consumers more attuned to the signs of an overstuffed face. “We’ve seen people doing more than ever in our practices,” said Vanessa Lee, nurse esthetician and founder of Southern California esthetics clinic The Things We Do. “We’re also doing more dismantling than we’ve ever done.” According to a 2023 report from the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, hyaluronic acid filler procedures increased by 70% from 2019 to 2022.
“People have gone from not having cosmetics, botox and fillers to overdoing it,” said Dr. Kseniya Kobets, director of cosmetic dermatology and assistant professor of dermatology at Montefiore-Einstein. In response, consumers are moving away from obvious augmentation and toward cosmetic procedures that mimic the body’s own regenerative properties, such as collagen boosters. “People don’t want to be crowded,” he said. “They want to be stimulated.”
With the aesthetic pendulum swinging away from obvious fillers, Lee said, Skinvive can fill a void for consumers who want to improve their appearance without looking like they’ve had work done. At The Things We Do, Skinvive costs $750 a session compared to other fillers that cost $650 to $1,200 per syringe. Lee says clients use it alongside and not instead of routine procedures like Botox or chemical peels.
While Skinvive is suitable for patients of all ages and skin types, Lee says patients in their 50s or 60s with flaky skin texture or those with particularly dehydrated skin may need additional injections, making the procedure more expensive. Dr. David Kim, a dermatologist at Idriss Dermatology in New York City, believes it could be a game-changer for acne-prone patients of all ages looking for extra hydration without using heavy moisturizers. The common denominator is those seeking minimally invasive treatments.
While more research is needed to make such claims, initial clinical research has shown that Skinvive increases aquaporins, water channels in the skin that indicate hydration. And because Skinvive involves multiple injections into the cheeks, Dr. Kobets added that the procedure could also help stimulate collagen similar to microneedling. “You’re basically using something external, but you’re also helping your body do what it naturally does,” he said.
Risks and rewards
Physician assistant Susanna Franks was excited for Skinvive to arrive at her practice, Manhattan’s Washington Square Dermatology, believing it would appeal to her Millennial and younger clients who are getting into fillers and “baby Botox.” “On social media, everyone wants to have glass skin, the perfect skin,” Franks said.
But after trying the product herself, she was overwhelmed by the lack of visible improvement. For patients in their 20s and 30s who already have smooth skin, Skinvive’s high price tag — $1,200 a session in her office — may not be worth the subtle effect. “It’s unlike a filler where you show the patient the mirror afterwards and there’s a wow factor,” he said. “For $1,200 you could do a lot of other things, you could do a really hardcore laser where you would definitely see the difference.”
Even if patients aren’t thrilled with the results, Skinvive’s surface injection means there’s less risk of serious side effects like vascular occlusion compared to other fillers, Dr. Kim noted. But this comes with other disadvantages.
Skinvive uses Juvederm’s exclusive Vycross technology, which cross-links hyaluronic acid molecules of different sizes for a smoother effect. Although Kim has not seen such cases in his practice, he notes that studies have shown that Vycross technology is more associated with nodule formation. “When you have a lump, sometimes if it’s deep, you could feel it, but you might not see it. But with Skinvive, because it’s injected quite superficially, you’ll see it if it happens.”
That may make competitors like Profhilo more attractive if they get FDA approval. IBSA has not confirmed or denied whether it is currently seeking FDA approval for Profhilo. Galderma, maker of Restylane Skinbooster, did not respond to requests for comment. “There can be a divide among dermatologists who favor one over the other because of this small risk of nodules,” Kim said.
The Road to Mass Adoption
Botox has more than 20 years since it was approved by the FDA for cosmetic uses to become the leading name in neuromodulators. In today’s market, a new trend or product can take off almost overnight. While social media is confusing when it comes to reliable information, Franks notes that it has the potential to excite consumers about new products like nothing else—just look at the “Barbie Botox” or Traptox trend that took over TikTok last summer.
This means that consumers now have more power to dictate whether a new product like Skinvive makes it to their providers’ offices. “It’s so commercialized that when the patient comes in and they’ve heard about Skinvive and they say, ‘Oh, you have that?’ you’re kind of, not forced, but encouraged to get that product,” Dr. Kobets said.
Skinvive and skin enhancers have yet to achieve the viral popularity of Botox, although the right influencer could quickly change that. But while social media can help consumers try new cosmetic procedures, it doesn’t mean they’ll be repeat customers.
Months after trying Skinvive, Duque still has bumps on her cheeks. “I would try other things in the future, but not a skin booster,” she said.
