When your skin care products leave you with dull skin, you may want to consider microdermabrasion. A popular non-invasive cosmetic procedure (like dermaplaning and microneedling), the powerful treatment claims to help you achieve smoother, brighter skin.
Microdermabrasion is a fairly simple in-office cosmetic treatment that involves natural exfoliation of the skin and helps address issues such as uneven tone and texture, age spots, dull skin and fine lines.
Ahead, experts share everything you need to know about microdermabrasion, including how it works, benefits, side effects, cost, and more.
What is microdermabrasion and how does it work?
“Microdermabrasion is a procedure that offers natural exfoliation to the skin,” he explains Joshua Zeichner, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of aesthetics and clinical research in dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York. “A device is used to manually remove dead cells from the outer layer of the skin.” The device works by using fine exfoliating particles, such as crystal or diamond dust, which give the tool a gritty surface.
Your dermatologist or esthetician will begin the treatment on clean skin, free of dirt or makeup. “The tip of the device is pressed against the skin with gentle pressure to naturally remove dead cells. The device typically has a donut appearance, with a central opening connected to a suction device to remove dead skin cells and debris,” says Dr. Zeichner. “The whole procedure usually takes about 20 minutes to perform, depending on the number of passes made over the skin.”
The treatment is considered non-invasive – Dr. Zeichner even calls it the “lunchtime treatment,” meaning that generally most patients can resume their daily activities right after their appointment with little to no signs that they’ve had anything done.
There are also three main types of microdermabrasion, and your provider can help you determine which one is right for you. These include:
Microdermabrasion with a diamond tip
Diamond tip microdermabrasion uses a handpiece that is coated with diamond dust particles that creates “a strong, yet gentle exfoliation surface,” says Dr. Zeicher. This treatment is ideal for treating hard-to-reach areas and offers the provider maximum control as pressure and suction power can be varied.
Crystal microdermabrasion
This microdermabrasion technique uses a “sandblasting” technology through crystals (usually made of aluminum salts) to create the exfoliating effect, Dr. Zeichner explains. The vacuum then removes both dead skin cells and crystals. Crystal microdermabrasion can provide a “deeper treatment,” according to Zeichner, but it can also be more irritating and offer less precision.
Hydrodermabrasion
Hydrodermabrasion, also known as a hydrodermabrasion treatment, is a combination treatment that offers the same exfoliation you’d expect from a diamond or crystal microdermabrasion, as well as a skin infusion treatment. These infusion solutions “contain active ingredients such as antioxidants for added antiaging benefits,” explains Dr. Zeichner.
Benefits of microdermabrasion
“Microdermabrasion is a versatile procedure that can address various skin concerns and promote healthier skin,” she explains. Melissa Kanchanapoomi Levin, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Entière Dermatology in New York. “It’s generally safe for all skin types and can be a great option for those looking for a non-invasive way to improve their complexion and address specific skin concerns.” Dr. Levin notes that the main benefits of microdermabrasion can include:
- A smoother and brighter complexion
- More even skin tone and texture
- Improved appearance of age spots and dark spots
- Reduction of fine lines and wrinkles
- Enhanced penetration of skin care products
Side effects of microdermabrasion
While experts agree that microdermabrasion is a very safe cosmetic treatment with minimal risk, you may experience some side effects. These are usually limited to “slight swelling or sunburn-like symptoms,” such as redness, notes Dr. Levin. These side effects after treatment usually subside within a few days.
To avoid more significant side effects, you should make sure to consult with a board-certified dermatologist to determine if microdermabrasion is right for you. Those with active acne, rosacea, eczema, other inflammatory skin conditions, or a compromised skin barrier should avoid microdermabrasion as it can worsen these conditions, according to Dr. Levin.
How to prepare the skin for microdermabrasion
Minimal preparation is required before a microdermabrasion treatment, but you’ll want to make sure your skin is both clean and well-moisturized before your appointment (and the same goes for after.) Be sure to thoroughly cleanse the skin beforehand and use a moisturizing moisturizer in the days before the treatment.
After the procedure, maintain a gentle skin care routine that includes cleanser and moisturizer. It’s also important to apply a daily sunscreen (at least SPF 30) afterward to protect newly exfoliated skin from sun damage, Dr. Levin explains.
Does microdermabrasion hurt?
The idea of using a crude tool on your face may seem painful, but most patients and providers agree that at most, the procedure is merely uncomfortable. However, everyone’s pain tolerance is different.
It is also important to note that microdermabrasion is a non-invasive treatment that only works on the outer layer of skin, so pain should be minimal. If you feel pain during your procedure, be sure to let your provider know.
How much does microdermabrasion cost?
Ultimately it depends. “The cost of microdermabrasion can vary depending on the provider, the location, and the number of sessions required,” explains Dr. Levin. “On average, a single session can cost anywhere from $100 to $400.” Again, this will depend on your location and other factors.
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Shannen Zitz is an Assistant Editor at Prevention, where she covers all things lifestyle, wellness, beauty and relationships. Previously the Editorial Assistant at Prevention, graduated from the State University of New York at Cortland with a BA in English. If she’s not reading or writing, you can probably find her frequenting skin care and makeup forums on Reddit or hitting the squat rack at the gym.
Janiene Luke, MD is a board certified dermatologist and associate professor practicing in southern California. Dr. Luke specializes in medical and cosmetic dermatology specializing in hyperpigmentation, hair disorders and skin color. He lectures locally and nationally and has a special interest in dermatology education and curriculum development. The passion of Dr. Luke’s commitment to educating patients as well as the public has resulted in numerous contributions to various media outlets. He is active in several national societies, including the American Academy of Dermatology, the American Society for Dermatologic Surgery, the Women’s Dermatology Society, the National Medical Association, and the Skin of Color Society, where he serves as co-chair of the Technology and Social Media Committee. In her free time, Dr. Luke enjoys singing, traveling and cooking.