These days, beauty lovers are slathering more on their skin than serums and lotions. Technology has entered the skin care space, and everyone from your aunt to your favorite celebrity is probably talking about red light and microcurrent therapy at home.
The market for skin care devices—including masks, bars, and wands—is expected to grow from $5.02 billion in 2022 to $13.94 billion by 2032. At $100-plus, these tools are definitely an investment — but are they any good? Dermatologists ahead Dr. Azadeh Shirazi and Dr. Marisa Garshick discuss the advantages and pitfalls of these devices and whether they are really as good as in-office treatments.
What are skin care devices and what problems do they face?
“Skin care devices now offer cutting-edge technologies that were once only available in dermatology offices,” explains Shirazi. These devices use microcurrents, LED photobiomodulation and radio frequency technologies to stimulate collagen production, treat acne and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and scars. However, the scientific value of these devices is still disputed.
Shirazi attributes the popularity of skin care gadgets to social media and increasing interest in skin care that happened during the pandemic. And, of course, the convenience factor of performing skin care treatments at home rather than in the doctor’s office cannot be overstated. “These at-home devices are designed to be portable and user-friendly, allowing consumers to incorporate them into their home skin care routines,” adds Shirazi.
The benefits of skin care devices
At-home skincare devices like the Solawave 4-in-1 Advanced Skincare Wand ($169), NuFace Trinity+ Starter Kit ($395) and Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro ($455) are relatively new to the market. As you shop for one, you may notice words like “microcurrents” and “LED therapy.” See what these terms mean—and what benefits they have to offer.
Microcurrents
“Microcurrent devices use low levels of electrical current to stimulate facial muscles to help sculpt and lift the face,” says Garshick. “It is considered that microcurrent has been proven they help heal wounds and reduce inflammation, may also promote collagen and elastin production to help firm and tighten the skin, although more research is needed.” Microcurrent technology can also boost circulation, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
LED photobiomodification
NASA originally created red and blue light therapy to they help to heal and repair wounds.
Red wavelength light can softens wrinkles, stimulates collagen productionand boost traffic. “Red light therapy in LED masks works by photobiomodulation, a phenomenon where different components of our cells are activated by different wavelengths of light,” says Shirazi. “Red light therapy is like your morning coffee. It helps wake up your skin cells by activating mitochondria, which are the powerhouse of our cells.” This stimulation helps your mitochondria work by repairing your cells and helping them grow.
Blue light, meanwhile, it can help clear your skin of acne killing bacteria.
Radio frequency technology
These skin care devices use radio frequencies to stimulate collagen production. “If your primary concern is skin tightening, then using a radiofrequency device to deliver heat energy works best for tissue tightening,” says Shirazi.
Where skin care devices fall short
While skin care devices hold a lot of promise, many of them could benefit from a few more years of research. “In many ways, it’s important to note that skin care tools and devices don’t replace your at-home skin care routine or in-office procedures,” says Garshick.
Something else to note: Since you’ll be handling these devices without the help of a trained professional, it’s important to follow the instructions to a T, especially as your skin acclimates to the new tool. For example, the Solawave 4-in-1 Advanced Skincare Wand instructions specifically say to start with five minutes of treatment three times a week to test how your skin will react.
“That said, it’s best to avoid certain at-home devices that offer little benefit and can cause harm if used incorrectly, such as pore vacuums and at-home microneedling kits for facial rejuvenation,” warns Garshick.
So are they worth the money?
If taking care of your skin is a big part of your wellness routine, investing in one of these devices might be worth it for you. “Depending on the concern, there are likely to be some temporary improvements as well as some long-term benefits with consistent use,” says Garshick. “For that reason, if you have the budget and want to consider incorporating them, it makes sense. But in general, there may be greater benefits with in-office treatments.”
Both dermatologists recommend purchasing a device that has been clinically tested and approved by the FDA. “Consulting with a dermatologist or skin care professional can also help determine the best skin care regimen, including the use of skin care devices, based on individual skin concerns and goals,” says Shirazi.
