Are laser facials good for boosting collagen?

Laser facial spas are popping up all over the internet, claiming a range of cosmetic and skin health benefits with just a few high-powered flashes of light.

These facial treatments, also called laser resurfacing, can remove old, damaged skin and boost collagen production. The result is often firmer, firmer, more even skin.

There are many laser resurfacing options. Skin Laundry, one of the hottest facial laser companies out there right now, offers $75 treatments that claim to deep clean, stimulate collagen, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, blend discoloration, and kill acne-causing bacteria. The company encourages customers to purchase a monthly subscription and return for multiple visits.

Meanwhile, laser resurfacing performed by plastic surgeons tends to be more expensive and requires a recovery time of days to weeks. But more intense clinical procedures usually require only one treatment, and the results can last for years.

“Helps the 3 Ts—Tone, Firm, Texture,” Sonia Badreshia, MD, FAAD, said a board-certified dermatologist and CEO and medical director of the Elite MD Advanced Dermatology, Laser and Plastic Surgery Institute. “People generally do it once and then do maintenance depending on the safety of sun damage.”

Navigate different types of laser facial treatments

Resurfacing lasers are designed to tighten skin and get rid of brown spots, fine lines, precancerous growths, acne scars, and even keratosis. Other types of laser treatments target skin care needs such as hair removal, tattoo pigmentation, dark spots from sun damage, and dilated blood vessels or red spots.

Ablative lasers vaporize the top layer of skin, called the epidermis, to remove aging and damaged cells. They also penetrate deeper into the dermis, where it stimulates collagen formation.

Gentler non-ablative lasers reach the underlying skin tissue without damaging the surface. Ablative lasers tend to be more effective, while non-ablative options allow for faster healing.

There are some types of lasers that can treat an entire area, while fractional lasers only target a section of skin. Fractional lasers can be either ablative or non-ablative. Fractional lasers are the most popular for boosting collagen production and each comes with a different level of intensity.

“Compared to fully ablative laser, fractional laser treatment has many advantages, including faster healing time, fewer side effects and less discomfort during the procedure. Fractional laser treatment also causes less thermal damage to the skin and reduces the risk of post-treatment complications such as scarring and infection,” he said. Cameron Rokhsar, MD, FAAD, FAACSdual board certified dermatologist and plastic surgeon at New York Cosmetic Skin & Laser Surgery Center.

Fractional carbon dioxide and Er:YAG lasers are the two most popular styles. CO2 lasers can be more effective at boosting collagen than Er:YAG lasers and are especially suitable for older adults, according to Rokhsar.

However, CO2 lasers also carry a greater risk of causing pigmentation. Er:YAG lasers can achieve similar results, but usually require a few more passes of the laser. However, Er:YAG tends to be more targeted, which is useful for treating skin at risk of scarring, such as the skin around the eyes.

Harmon said most laser treatments will cost between $500 and $6,000. More intensive laser treatments, such as CO2 lasers, are usually a one-off, while milder ones may require repeat visits.

How fractional laser helps collagen production

Fractional laser therapy is so called because the surgeon penetrates some parts of the skin with tiny rays while leaving others intact.

Christopher Harmon, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist at Surgical Dermatology Group in Alabama, said you can think of fractional lasers like the bristles on a brush. Just as the spaces between hairs leave parts of the scalp untouched, fractional lasers can target specific areas of the skin without destroying the entire skin.

The fractional laser fires short bursts of light into the skin, causing small, targeted injuries. After surgery, the skin will produce more collagen or rearrange existing collagen networks to help heal the wound while also tightening the skin.

“You stimulate collagen production creating a very controlled injury. And the healing process of that injury is really what gives the revitalization,” Harmon said.

Skin contraction is part of the wound healing process. This skin tightening “pulls the fine lines out of the skin,” Harmon said. As collagen regenerates, it can also smooth out discoloration and acne scars.

Fractional laser treatment has the advantage of a relatively quick recovery time because the wounds can heal with the help of the untreated skin around them.

During the procedure, the provider will give the patient local anesthesia, either as a topical numbing cream or as an injection. Some of the more aggressive types of lasers, such as CO2 lasers, can cause enough discomfort that surgeons may sedate patients.

Non-ablative laser treatment may only take a few days to heal. Superficial laser resurfacing can take five to seven days, while deep laser resurfacing can take a few weeks.

Possible risks of Laser Resurfacing treatment

After a laser treatment session, the patient may experience pain, redness, swelling, peeling and crusting. These usually go away within a few days or weeks, Harmon said.

The treated skin area may become discolored by sun exposure. Harmon recommends staying out of the sun until the redness goes away. Using a broad-spectrum sunscreen will help protect the skin and ensure it heals properly.

Because the procedure involves tissue removal, it can sometimes leave a patient with scars. For some people with medium-toned skin, the pigmentation and scarring that can sometimes appear from the procedure can be more visible than on other skin tones.

“I’m not saying it’s an absolute contraindication, because it’s not. But it’s something you need to be aware of and you need to be sure that the person treating you is experienced in treating this type of skin tone,” Harmon said.

Badreshia also said that the treatment won’t relieve all types of pigmentation and that people with melasma should be especially careful.

“More commonly, treatment can also cause acne-like rashes, HSV flare-ups, bacterial skin infections, erosions, prolonged redness, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” Badreshia said.

Gentle, non-ablative lasers are probably the best option for most patients, he added.

Things to consider before starting laser treatment

Laser resurfacing treatments can be done in a variety of intensities and styles. The best way for a patient to find the right laser for their needs is to consult with an experienced provider, Harmon said.

Some surgeons will do a pre-procedure consultation and share what products to use and how to prepare. They may recommend that their patients stop using active skin care ingredients such as retinol and vitamin C before laser treatment.

Badreshia said to tell your provider if you have a history of cold sores or cold sores, as laser skin resurfacing can cause breakouts. They may prescribe antibiotics or antivirals to prevent such infections.

Additionally, people who smoke or take blood thinners may experience excessive bruising and a slower recovery from the procedure. Badreshia recommends that patients stop smoking and take these drugs 10 days in advance.

Badreshia recommends searching multiple plastic surgery offices to find a provider that works with all skin types and tones and will provide the safest experience. Any type of laser treatment can have side effects if administered by the wrong provider.

“The most important thing is to do your research—evaluate the office, the provider’s experience, and the before and after, in order to have realistic expectations, comfort and trust with your provider,” Badreshia said.